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Lucas Ossendrijver, under the influence of a certain Mr Elbaz, presented his autumn winter vision early on Sunday morning – the last day of the Paris menswear week. As usual it was one of the hottest tickets around, and Palais de Tokyo was bursting with people and excitement. Coats in navy wool and flowing nylon opened the show, which quickly moved into a section where deconstructed suits showed what they are really made out of!
Attention was early on drawn to the waist of the models through big leather belts, some of the over coats and jackets, others under tuxedo jackets. The colour palette changed widely, taking in brown, navy, grey and wine red. Many models had headbands, boots and rucksacks, giving the impression of a well-dressed urban hiker.
As usual, Lanvin went from effortlessly from casual to formal, even hanging their over sized rucksacks on formal tuxedo jackets. Other visual highlights included a strange hybrid of frilly knitwear and golden pants. Some biker jackets had survived last season’s drive of toughing up the Lanvin brand, but there were still traces the creased and casual boyish tailoring that we have come to associate Lanvin with.
Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: It was about a sense of protection, it’s rough for men out there and we need to be protected.
DD: How did that translate onto the catwalk?
Lucas Ossendrijver: When you feel good about yourself, you look assured. The coats were important – they were like cocoons with their big shapes and lots of volume.
DD: What’s the main objective behind a Lanvin collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: That you can see the person behind the clothes!
DD: You mention volume, but you also worked a lot with proportions, didn’t you?
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yes, with the coats we had cut off, coats that were really long and coats that were quite slim fit. For us it’s about giving a choice and option because we don’t want to dictate to people what to wear - we want to offer alternatives!
DD: What was your favourite piece?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I want the first big coat in the very beginning of the show!
Judging by the post-show interest in talking to, saying hi to or just looking at Alber Elbaz and his menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, the Lanvin spring summer presentation was a no-questions-asked success. As per usual there was an eagerness among the crowds to mingle with the models and Lanvin staffers, but this was quite something. But it just goes to show that the label is considered one of Paris’ big guns. And it’s not only fashion editors who love it; other designers also appreciate the Ossendrijver’s work – Thom Browne was at the show, looking mighty impressed.
The summer was, initially at least, quite dark. Lots of black and grey suits entered, making the otherwise fairly boyish Lanvin man look hard and determined. It was an unusual sight, but the smart and buttoned-up feel soon gave way to what we know and love Lanvin for: loosely fitted suits in sombre colours, with a casual tie hanging nonchalantly. The cooler-than-thou theme continued with sequined tops, and a few check prints on shorts and t-shirts. For accessories Lucas had chosen a stylish headband visor and, rather more curiously, fake moustaches that were drawn on the model’s upper lips. Nice shades of green and burgundy red impressed the most, and many people are surely already saving up to get their very own Lanvin suit for next summer. The last minutes of the show belonged to Salt’n’Pepa’s Push It Real Good, and no doubt Lanvin did just that. When the dust had settled Dazed chatted quickly with Lucas Ossendrijver…
Dazed Digital: Some looks were a bit harder than what we’re used to!
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yes, for a lot of seasons we have been exploring softness, and I think the softness is still in the clothes, but the image is more edgy.
DD: Where did you find the inspiration?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We left the fashion laboratory we work in and went down onto the street for that!
DD: How would you describe it in a few words?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I’d say it’s about individualism and anti-uniform
DD: What piece from the collection is your favourite?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I don’t have just one favourite – they all make sense together!
Backstage photography by Giovanni di Nunzio.
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