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CAROLYN MASSEY AW 10-11
The East London-based designer kicks off the menswear shows at LFW
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 26 February 2010
First out on London Fashion Week’s busy menswear schedule was Carolyn Massey. The East London based designer has carved out a nice niche for herself during the last few seasons as a subtle and formal tailor, often evoking army influences and monochrome shades.
This AW10 show was a successful follow-up on past achievements. Citing an anonymous donor, Massey went on to darker and moodier military elements, some dating back as far as the Second World War. Massey’s ‘Obsolete Prototype C53’ collection saw her mix staple pieces – such as her collarless shirts and flowing wool coats – with extensive use of leather. Over sized T-shirts, some with big chest pockets, come out in both black and a light pink shade, apparently inspired by “the muted hues of a Tokyo morning”.
The army influences were quite subtle though, which was refreshing in a scenario where epaulettes, bomber jackets and chunky boots often pop up. 1940s inspired stripy tops featured heavily, and generally speaking knits and shirts came either slightly over sized or very long in the body. All in all, a pukka Carolyn Massey show. As usual.
Dazed Digital: What was the main influence behind the collection?
Carolyn Massey: The initial inspiration came from the patterns. We toiled them up and fitted them, whilst editing into a more contemporary story. With this, my Tokyo travels inspired the colour pallete. It feels like cities have different colours, these were the colours of my jet lagged mornings. That and the word ‘elegance’. It’s haunting me at the moment - a desire for elegance in my work. Sometimes a feeling can be more inspiring than an image.
DD: Could you say anything about the 'donor'? Has he in the war?
Carolyn Massey: I have been asked not to - for security reasons.
DD: It isn't often we see prints in your collection - how did they come about?
Carolyn Massey: It’s about making the garments mine, developing a deeper aesthetic story with the line up, and on the rail. The prints were designed in collaboration with print designer Sam Cotton. I’d been to see the Ray Johnston exhibition at the Raven Row gallery and was inspired to create postal prints. The faded agedness of them was reflected in the silk twill.
DD: There were a lot of loose tops and tighter bottoms - did you just feel like playing around with proportions?
Carolyn Massey: The looser looks came from a military smock, I love the contrast of silhouettes, it seems somehow refreshing at the moment when collections can look so straight up and down skinny.
DD: Congratulations on being selected for the Unica On Stage project - are you coming back to London, or are you planning to show in Milan from now?
Carolyn Massey: The award is to work with Italian mills and be sponsored for next season. It involves a show in Milan during Unica. It couldn’t replace London!
DD: What was your favourite piece from the show?
Carolyn Massey: The sleeveless tailored jacket. And yes, I’m having one.
CAROLYN MASSEY S/S 10
We spoke to Carolyn Massey at the NEWGEN MAN shows at the BFC, Somerset House
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 25 September 2009
Having become a pleasant staple piece on the London menswear schedule, Carolyn Massey was this time around - together with James Long - selected to start off the first ever New Gen Man show. Acting as an older brother to the MAN show, this event allows designers to grow up and develop their skills - without leaving London. As such, Massey was the perfect choice by the BFC; six collections in, she has not only carved out a niche for herself in monochrome and quirky tailoring, but also realised that the design business doesn’t escape the supply-and-demand market.
Massey showed a wearable and colourful collection, taking in classic pieces like trench coats, cardigans and blazers. It was almost like the craziest Massey got was to put hiking boots and winter hats on models in shorts and tank tops. But such challenging style tips were easily out-weighed by the superb colour palette, which included navy with beige and red with blue. The result was a suave “boy from Dungeness”- look, which will not only ensure Massey commercial success, but also confirmation that just because the world isn’t black or white doesn’t mean it’s necessarily grey; mustard yellow and moss green will work as well…
Outdoor themed outfits and accessories – such as the rucksack steel harness – added a recognisable characteristic to the show, but luckily Massey didn’t completely forget her tailoring heritage; smarter looks featured as well and, in the end, everyone left happy and reassured that London’s menswear is moving forwards and upwards. Dazed Digital had a quick chat with her after the show.
Dazed Digital: What was the main inspiration behind the collection?
Carolyn Massey: I got hold of a copy of the film Heroes of Telemark and I was inspired by Kirk Douglas and his men who looked really good in their Norwegian military gear.
DD: You also went camping in Dungeness in Kent, right?
Carolyn Massey: Yeah, I enjoyed the eerie landscape there. There are such contrasts with the fisherman’s huts and the blinking nuclear power station down there. That camping weekend gave the collection a stronger outdoor feeling as well.
DD: The show felt kind of broad and like it covered many bases – was it a mature collection?
Carolyn Massey: I just wanted to increase my audience. I’ve started thinking about it more as brand, so I’m now working with a shoe company and other people who can help me expand
DD: There were quite a few colours in there – you normally stay within the monochrome palette!
Carolyn Massey: I know! I just thought it is a spring summer collection after all, so why not inject some colour. I think most designers a winter designers – it’s a lot easier to work with heavy fabrics…
DD: It was very much an outdoors collection, did you think a lot about functionality?
Carolyn Massey: Yes, that came from the camping trip but I was also trying to capture that feeling of when you were a kid and got dragged out of bed at 5am in the morning to go on a family trip. But this being the British summer, it’s not necessarily hot at all!
DD: What’s your favourite piece from the collection?
Carolyn Massey: I love the last look. It’s a black jacket in coated cotton, which has loads of pockets on it and a bag attached to it.
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