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JAMES LONG AW 10-11
Navy leathers and fur detailing kept the hardcore James Long fans happy
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 25 February 2010
James Long has a long-standing love affair with leather and their mutual affectionate relationship blossomed also this winter collection. But there was another factor – call it the third wheel, if you like - in the partnership this time around: blue - and lots of it!
As far as colour choices go, it was an effective one. Most menswear pieces tend to look good in shades of navy. Long tried it on biker jackets, trousers and cardigans. Another James Long newcomer was corduroy. It infiltrated the whole collection, but was at its strongest as a boiler suit. That specific garment very much summed up the collection as it was christened 'Boiler Room Boys'. But it seems opposites attracts. Except for denim work wear, there were the odd “promiscuous boys” outfit as well. Leather jackets with generous fur detailing kept hardcore James Long fans happy. But more than preaching to the converted, Long reached out and designed a wearable and commercial collection.
Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
James Long: The models were Boiler Room Boys. The heat of a boiler room influenced the main print of the show.
DD: What was the red print al about?
James Long: It’s hot and sweaty in the boiler room and the print is a zoomed-in microscope version of fever particles. And the boiler work wear inspired all the denim.
DD: Were the cardigans made out of mohair?
James Long: Yes, and that represented mould growing on the fever.
DD: It feels a bit bionic!
James Long: Yeah, also because the corduroy is treated to be shower proof
DD: A favourite piece from the show?
James Long: Well, I’m already wearing the jump suit.
JAMES LONG S/S 10
Showing at NEWGEN MAN, designer James Long truly masters the art of leather and knits
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 25 September 2009
Photography by Andy Barnham
The privilege of being the first designers to share the stage at the inaugural New Gen Man fittingly went to James Long and Carolyn Massey. In many ways the two very different designers perfectly capsulate what’s great about London’s meanswear scene, and why it deserves it’s very own day at London Fashion Week, if not even more…wink, wink!
Massey delivered a measured and mature collection, while Long rightly took it upon himself to push boundaries and to see just how far us guys will be willing to follow him on the slippery road to fashion nirvana. As such, Long made it a bit easier for us this season, especially if you like leather! He had promised a more wearable collection, and there were definitely pieces – sleeveless biker jackets, trench coats and tops – that will go down a storm.
But Long wasn’t going to let go of this opportunity to show that leather – besides his famous knitwear – is a fabric he fully masters. Patchwork tops, elaborate trousers and a utility harness in moss green all furthered the tight, sleek and shiny leather look. In terms of colours, Long went for shimmering green and gold in a patent leather, and a customised camouflage pattern, which became the red thread throughout his show. the urban guerrilla look was James Longified by the presence of man bags and sunglasses. Afterwards, Dazed Digital spoke quickly to the designer:
Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
James Long: I started out by looking at Andy Warhol’s oxidation paintings. He used to urinate on copper, which made it look a bit like a camouflage pattern. I always reference army, but I wanted this collection to look a bit war torn with an added shininess to it.
DD: Wasn’t it quite heavy for a summer collection?
James Long: Not really, leather is what I do so that’s what you’ll get from one of my collections. And a good piece should transcend seasons anyway!
DD: You mention leather as your trademark fabric, but you’re also very much into knitwear, aren’t you?
James Long: Yeah, I think they work really well with each other; it becomes a high finish contrast.
DD: Was the camouflage your way of doing adding a tougher, military side to the show?
James Long: As I said, I often look that way for inspiration, but I wanted to twist it and play with it – that’s why I added tie die, so it became my take on it!
DD: What’s it like being the first designer to show with New Gen MAN?
James Long: It feels amazing. If it wasn’t for this I wouldn’t have been able to do something, and it’s terrifying to do all that work and have nowhere to show it.
DD: What’s your favourite piece from the show?
James Long: I really like the cosmic bag and the camouflage mac – they’re going into my wardrobe!
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