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Ann’s AW10 show on Saturday took place in her usual choice of the Couvent des Cordeliers and was soundtracked by persistent rain from grey skies. The collection was suitably dark and black. But that’s of course standard procedure for this Belgian power designer.
The colour palette focused on black, white, light grey and skin tones. It had the normal Ann staple pieces, like skinny leather cargo pants, long wool suit jackets and sharp army boots. Heavy belts and chains accessories kept the clothes in place. A clear decadence was apparent. Feather boas flowed freely over waistcoats and shirt blouses. Fur – in both black and camel – testified to a sartorial feeling of supremacy.
Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the collection?
Ann Demeulemeester: I started with a fantasy in my head - I was trying to make a character of my own. It’s a modern day Duke for 2010. His extravagant personality and artistic nobility led to the collection.
DD: What does the Duke represent for you?
Ann Demeulemeester: It represents something noble, but nothing to do with Bourgeois. My duke has edge and extravagance, he’s strange and not like everybody else.
DD: Who’s a modern day Duke for you?
Ann Demeulemeester: Someone like Robert Mapplethorpe or The Thin White Duke!
DD: So did you use Bowie for the show soundtrack?
Ann Demeulemeester: Yeah, some instrumental songs from his time in Berlin.
DD: In what way is the collection noble?
Ann Demeulemeester: I use black, which is a modern and noble shade, and my leather and fur fits into the Duke idea as well
In the early afternoon on Saturday, half way through this edition of Paris menswear week, droves of fashionable and in-the-know people travelled to Metro Trocadero and walked the short journey to Musee de l’Homme. The occasion was another installment in Ann Demeulemeester’s fashion empire; her spring summer 10 menswear show. The air was thick with excitement, people gasped for air – a combination of great clothes and extreme heat!
What we saw was an exercise in perfection. Even from a distance one could tell that Ann’s fabrics – like her structured suit fabrics – were beautifully made, and finely detailed, as her tuxedo jackets with sequined lapels proved. Colour wise there was lots of skin-toned beige, quite literally as well. Many Demeulemeester models came out showing their chest, but it all blended in and made sense with her aesthetic vision. And it wasn’t just jacket lapels that had been decorated with sequins; sleeveless tops, and even cardigans, came out covered in the shimmering detail. The classic Demeulemeester tailoring was of course present; loose-fitted jackets in white and black, low cut leather waistcoats, and cropped trousers.
One of few prints featured two merged birds, originally a photo by Ann’s husband Patrick Robyn. Another highlight was two silk robes, worn over a thin knitted hoodie, making it look like the robes boxers wear before a match. So people left satisfied, knowing that whatever happens in our crazy world you can always rely on Ann Demeulemeester for a good show. Before the presentation, Dazed Digital spoke to the designer…
Dazed Digital: What are the main feelings running through the collection?
Ann Demeulemeester: It’s an intriguing dialogue between the body and the garment, a sensitive balance of sensuality and strength, of tenderness and power. It’s also about enlightenment and innocence, but an innocence that is almost provocative in its innocence.
DD: How did that transform into the clothing?
Ann Demeulemeester: The clothes work as a second skin, There is a lot of naked skin in the show, but the nakedness works with the clothes and that’s the dialogue between the body and the garment!
DD: There are some beautifully light colours in the collection!
Ann Demeulemeester: Yes, I have light beige colours inspired by skin and the enlightenment led me to white and light blue. But there is also black in there. It’s very important that there is strength in the collection as well, and it comes in the shape of black leather!
DD: So it’s about using opposites?
Ann Demeulemeester: Yes, opposites and tension, but it’s very delicate – it’s a fine line! This time around I really wanted to concentrate on the garments, voluntarily I made it much more pure.
DD: How would you sum the collection up?
Ann Demeulemeester: It’s about sensuality and the way I think a man can be very sensual without losing his masculinity.
DD: Which piece is your favourite from this collection?
Ann Demeulemeester: But you can’t just have one piece, you would be naked. No, I can’t choose – they’re all my children, don’t make me choose between them!
Backstage photography by Giovanni di Nunzio.
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