Thursday, February 25, 2010
J.W. ANDERSON AW 10-11
Sophisticated punks walked down the runway for J.W. Anderson's heavy military range
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 25 February 2010
In the early hours of Wednesday, J.W. Anderson brought out the heavy artillery to start off the last day of London Fashion week. The Irish designer started with a full frontal punk attack, billed by the man himself as “Saints or assassins with a cross-country paramilitary vibe”. But it wasn’t all about leather jackets and safety pins. Instead the focus lay on a beautiful tartan patterns – often in red or yellow shades – which screamed Highlands heritage as much as the Sex Pistols.
But no one could miss the overly loud detailing, such as the belt necklaces, studded belts and over decorated boots. Ripped jeans completed the Sid Vicious look. Luckily, J.W. Anderson had a lot more to show for himself than just your standard punk gear.
Modified Donkey jackets impressed, casual tailoring showed another Anderson side. Beige shades mixed with red, navy and green testified to an advanced AW colour palette. But all was promptly placed in the shadows by Anderson’s highly intricate and stud adorned boots – a real show stomper!
Dazed Digital: What influenced you? It was sort of sophisticated punk!
J.W. Anderson: Yes of course it was quite punky, but I also wanted to make it a bit futuristic.
DD: What were the futuristic elements of the collection?
J.W. Anderson: The boots I think. If you look close it looks like they are growing from the ground, kind of manipulating it.
DD: How would you describe the collection?
J.W. Anderson: It was about breaking it apart and putting it together again. I wanted it to be a compact look!
DD: There was a nice contrast between the harshness of punk and soft details, like hearts and flowers!
J.W. Anderson: I love hearts. They're big but they mean something. At first I was scared of using them, but I'm glad I did it in the end.
DD: The boots looks like hard work!
J.W. Anderson: We bought 1,200 belts when we did them so it took a while, yes.
DD: Any favourite pieces?
J.W. Anderson: The boots and I love the last look with the simple tartan and cycling gloves!