Friday, February 26, 2010
TIM SOAR AW 10-11
Tim Soar dresses for London's modern gentlemen
Text by David Hellqvist | Published 26 February 2010
London doesn’t have that many menswear designers dealing in smart luxury design. Sure, they know how to cut a suit and how to make a trainers look a million dollars, but there is something to be said for oozing qualitative luxury - and still being part of a fairly small click of British menswear designer.
This time around Tim Soar managed to crack that nut. He sent out a predominately beige and camel coloured collection – a colour that says wealth more than most. Add to that double-breasted jackets, formal loose pants and a pinstriped coat. This is not a city uniform, more a London dandy look. What gave away the Britishness was an umbrella and sou’wester hats. Explicit eveningwear came in the form of a sheer see-through shirt, paired up with tuxedo belt and smart pants.
Soar also showed a black biker jacket over a cashmere coat, but his strangest moment probably came when a model donned an electric blue wig. That was only made up for when he showed off a turtleneck jumper in the same excellent colour. Tim Soar not only showed away from everyone else at Somerset House in his Soho location, but also distinctively put a stamp of decadence on his show and, looking back at the menswear day, also on the entire LFW proceedings.
Dazed Digital: What was the main idea behind the show?
Tim Soar: It was a sort of Greatest Hits of Menswear idea. I used different influences, cuts and techniques from the Victorian period and onwards. I also wanted each piece to work on its own, with the context of the show and even the look.
DD: Anything else you looked at?
Tim Soar: There was definitely a 1970s Parisian vibe in there as well!
DD: There was a distinct feeling of luxury as well in the collection!
Tim Soar: Yeah, I wanted to explore that side of menswear without the clothes being about bling.
DD: Almost an understated luxurious feeling even?
Tim Soar: Well, I’m certainly not one for loading on too much detailing; I rather keep it slightly understated.
DD: There was also a clear British feeling to the collection!
Tim Soar: You mean with the umbrella and fisherman’s hat? Yeah, I looked to the fashion of the 1940s and 50s for that as a reference.
DD: Favourite piece from the show?
Tim Soar: I’m going to be wearing the flares for next season, they feel very right for me!