Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Cerruti has struggled for the past few years to find a new identity and a consistency in terms of its chief designer. The collections have never been bad; more lacked the unique personality that Paris demands of its designers on the menswear schedule. But all of that is about to change.
With the elevation from within of Jesper Börjesson to the top job, the brand is hoping to blow fresh air into the suit based brand. His style is a modern take on Cerruti’s heritage and could very well make Cerruti the fashion force it deserves to be. At Palais de Tokyo, Cerruti presented a tight and slim silhouette – bar a few loose pants – that impressed with elegant mohair knitwear under the traditionally brilliant suits. The colour palette was mostly sombre, but livened up by a couple of exciting check patterns.
Börjesson’s coats often came in a trench or biker format, and his ever-present bomber jackets were ‘glammed up’ through shimmering fabric. The choice of fabric is always a point of discussion after a Cerruti show, but this time we left talking about another detail as well: throughout the show Börjesson had cleverly layered his outer garments – a jacket over a coat, a waistcoat over a leather jacket and so on. One to watch, people!
Dazed Digital: What was the general theme behind the collection?
Jesper Börjesson: We wanted to create a new and modern army with a really rich fabrication. I don’t have a direct reference for the collection, but we did our fabric esearch in depth, and we have spent a lot of time with our tailor to define every seam and shape of the collection.
DD: What would you say is the Cerruti heritage and its strong points?
Jesper Börjesson: I would say it is the spirit of masculine elegance that Mr Nino Cerruti once created.
DD: How did the fabrics research process work?
Jesper Börjesson: I am lucky to start my first collection on a winter season where you have much more variety of fabric qualities and weights. The idea for the fabrics this season was to contrast the very textured and hairy fabrics in cashmere, mohair and alpaca on very sharp cut and linear clothes. We used some fabrics inside out, and we printed wool in a copper foil. The fabrics should be interesting for the eyes as well as the hands.
DD: Are biker and bomber jackets your staple pieces?
Jesper Börjesson: They are at the core of a man’s wardrobe and they are two of my personal favourite garments because they’re timeless. For this collection the biker jacket comes more in a flight jacket version in shearling, and the bomber jacket has a big wrapping collar.
DD: Will you take Cerruti in a younger and edgier direction?
Jesper Börjesson: The idea was to create pieces that are really well cut, and there are a lot of military and sub cultural references in the show - and I hope a younger crowd might find that attractive.
DD: What’s your favourite piece from the collection?
Jesper Börjesson: All the mohair knits with blown up butterfly wings patterns in black and pink, anise and grey.