Tuesday, January 26, 2010
As head masters of the British punk aesthetics – at least on the Paris menswear schedule – Blaak took to the stage Friday morning. The London duo is famous for its dark and punky outlook but have long ago showed that, unlike the actual punk movement, it will age nicely.
It was a good autumn offering, full of wool and tweed. Suits also came in velvet, and the silhouette was often slim, bar the odd over sized coat with leather details. In general, leather was quite big, even adorning t-shirts. The ever-present tartan checks drew appreciative looks from the crowd. They came in a black and grey version, but most people left talking about the gorgeous yellow and red combination.
The piece de resistance was a series of deconstructed shirts in a pinstriped fabric, which had been altered in shape, form and detailing. On top of that Aaron Sharif and Sachiko Okada showed an impressive range of over sized crucifix necklaces, which melted in perfectly with the rest of the Exodus collection.
Dazed Digital: What was your main bit of inspiration for the show?
Aaron Sharif: Filmmaker Derek Jarman – we watched everything from Jubilee to This is England, both of which are very punky. And then we moved on to Passolini, and that’s how we reached THX.
DD: Was London also an influence on you?
Aaron Sharif: I think so, yes. We’ve just spent the last six months there. It’s all from there – the fabrics, the crucifix accessories.
DD: Talking about crucifixes - there were a lot of big crosses in the show!
Aaron Sharif: It was about religion and whether religion is about consumption or is it about spirituality, and what do you get from it!
DD: Did you collaborate with someone on the accessories?
Aaron Sharif: Everything has to be done, in one way or another, by us. We’re doing bags with Head Porter for this season, but we still have great input on the end result.
DD: What are your favourite pieces from the show?
Aaron Sharif: I love the stuff that we re-modelled, like the shirts and pants.
DD: The shirts seemed quite deconstructed!
Aaron Sharif: Yes, I think you have to destroy the past in order to see the future!